[GSBN] earthen floor sealer in Haiti

Tue Mar 8 22:09:45 UTC 2011

Boiled linseed oil toughens and seals - but it is inclined to pick up moisture in high humidity situations and go sticky -  this is a problem in my own place in high summer with humidities approaching 100% and chair, and table legs stick to the floor surface and pull the surface off the floor - a bit messy.  This floor was saturated with linseed oil mind you - nearly 4 litres per sq.m.  A great surface apart from this issue.

Tung oil, unlike linseed oil which forms single linkages, forms double linkages that make for  a tougher surface which is less inclined to pick up humidity, so I tend to use this now, more sparingly as it is more expensive too.  A bit of cow dung in the mix forms a wonderful satiny surface to the floor.

I have passed some of this query on to a paint and oil natural oil expert I know on these matters  - hopefully he can cast some light  on this for us

cheers

Graeme ("stuck down") North 
Graeme North Architects
49 Matthew Road
RD1
Warkworth
tel/fax +64 (0)9 4259305

graeme at ecodesign.co.nz
www.ecodesign.co.nz

On 9/03/2011, at 7:41 AM, Tim Owen-Kennedy wrote:

> Briefly,
> 
> We have used Coconut oil at a clients request once because it wouldn't get rancid. Though we have used Cheap cooking oil without complaints (based on a workshop I took from Robert Laporte back in '95 so I don't know if that has been thoroughly tested). If you can't find a hardening oil and with cost a main issue I would be tempted to use filtered old cooking oil and heat it up (if you can filter it enough).
> 
> TIm
> 
> On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 10:19 AM, Andy Horn <andy at ecodesignarchitects.co.za> wrote:
> I have an old reciet from the 1600's here in the Cape ....also known as the
> Cape of Storms where the governor of the dutch east Indians had to ban the
> building of thatch roof buildings because of a series of devatating fires
> that were experienced at the Cape colony. So flat roofs were mandated. The
> governor sent out for a top mason to give a recipe for waterproofing of
> flatish mono pitched Giorgian type buildings. Apparently despite much
> scepticism given the ferocity of the storms we get, it worked...and indeed
> there are still the odd example to be found around.
> 
> The receipt says they made use of cocoa nut oil.....
> 
> 4 parts stamped lime shells taken out of the gravel of the oven (lime kiln),
> 2 parts ordnary masons lime, 2 parts finely powdered bricks ....well mixed
> dry, then all this was mixed with coaoa nut oil....until mixed like dough.
> Then laid immediately 1 1/2 inches thick and rubbed in with a trowel and
> steadily beaten with wooden mallets. Gentle beating with not too heavy
> mallets. Whilst busy the 2nd layer was prepared with 10 parts finely sifted
> lime, 3 parts finely sifted gravel of baked bricks and 1 part Bengal gor or
> sediment of sugar (draf zuker = molasses). Treated the same way as the first
> mix and applied the same way. Finally a liquid composec of lime, oil and Gor
> is made with a strong hand and a smooth trowel well rubbed on the last coat.
> 
> 
> We also have a tradition of sealign earth floors here in the rural areas and
> on some of the old farms with either ox blood ....burnished into the clay
> coating or else cow dung or both. Normally the cowdung is smeared on while
> fresh as a thin coating ...and it hardens creating the finish (though a bit
> rough for my taste). However this is something done periodically to freshen
> up a space.
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: GSBN-bounces at greenbuilder.com [mailto:GSBN-bounces at greenbuilder.com]
> On Behalf Of Chug
> Sent: 08 March 2011 05:44 PM
> To: (private, with public archives) Global Straw Building Network
> Subject: Re: [GSBN] earthen floor sealer in Haiti
> 
> I know a little about this from my involvement in biofuel and as Derelict
> wrote some oils are termed drying oils as they dry to a hard finish at
> normal room temperature,
> 
> Dammar oil, from the Canarium strictum,
> Linseed oil, used in paints, also suitable for human consumption.
> Poppyseed oil, similar in usage to linseed oil but with better color
> stability.
> Stillingia oil (also called Chinese vegetable tallow oil), obtained by
> solvent from the seeds of Sapium sebiferum.
> Tung oil, used in wood finishing.
> Vernonia oil is produced from the seeds of the Vernonia galamensis.
> (Ironweed)
> 
> In addition to the oils listed here, walnut, sunflower and safflower oil are
> 
> also considered to be drying oils
> 
> regards
> Chug
> chug at strawbale-building.co.uk
> http://www.strawbale-building.co.uk
> .
> 
> 
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> 
> -- 
> Tim Owen-Kennedy, Owner
> Vital Systems, natural building & design
> P O Box 751, Ukiah, CA 95482
> www.vitalsystems.net
> 888.859.6336
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