<html><head></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; ">Boiled linseed oil toughens and seals - but it is inclined to pick up moisture in high humidity situations and go sticky - this is a problem in my own place in high summer with humidities approaching 100% and chair, and table legs stick to the floor surface and pull the surface off the floor - a bit messy. This floor was saturated with linseed oil mind you - nearly 4 litres per sq.m. A great surface apart from this issue.<div><br></div><div>Tung oil, unlike linseed oil which forms single linkages, forms double linkages that make for a tougher surface which is less inclined to pick up humidity, so I tend to use this now, more sparingly as it is more expensive too. A bit of cow dung in the mix forms a wonderful satiny surface to the floor.</div><div><br></div><div>I have passed some of this query on to a paint and oil natural oil expert I know on these matters - hopefully he can cast some light on this for us</div><div><br></div><div>cheers</div><div><br></div><div><div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px 0px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; text-align: auto; -khtml-text-decorations-in-effect: none; text-indent: 0px; -apple-text-size-adjust: auto; text-transform: none; orphans: 2; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; "><div>Graeme ("stuck down") North </div><div>Graeme North Architects</div><div>49 Matthew Road</div><div>RD1</div><div>Warkworth</div><div>tel/fax +64 (0)9 4259305</div><div> </div><div><a href="mailto:graeme@ecodesign.co.nz">graeme@ecodesign.co.nz</a></div><div><a href="http://www.ecodesign.co.nz">www.ecodesign.co.nz</a></div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"></span>
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<br><div><div>On 9/03/2011, at 7:41 AM, Tim Owen-Kennedy wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote type="cite">Briefly,<br><br>We have used Coconut oil at a clients request once because it wouldn't get rancid. Though we have used Cheap cooking oil without complaints (based on a workshop I took from Robert Laporte back in '95 so I don't know if that has been thoroughly tested). If you can't find a hardening oil and with cost a main issue I would be tempted to use filtered old cooking oil and heat it up (if you can filter it enough).<br>
<br>TIm<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 10:19 AM, Andy Horn <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:andy@ecodesignarchitects.co.za">andy@ecodesignarchitects.co.za</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); padding-left: 1ex;">
I have an old reciet from the 1600's here in the Cape ....also known as the<br>
Cape of Storms where the governor of the dutch east Indians had to ban the<br>
building of thatch roof buildings because of a series of devatating fires<br>
that were experienced at the Cape colony. So flat roofs were mandated. The<br>
governor sent out for a top mason to give a recipe for waterproofing of<br>
flatish mono pitched Giorgian type buildings. Apparently despite much<br>
scepticism given the ferocity of the storms we get, it worked...and indeed<br>
there are still the odd example to be found around.<br>
<br>
The receipt says they made use of cocoa nut oil.....<br>
<br>
4 parts stamped lime shells taken out of the gravel of the oven (lime kiln),<br>
2 parts ordnary masons lime, 2 parts finely powdered bricks ....well mixed<br>
dry, then all this was mixed with coaoa nut oil....until mixed like dough.<br>
Then laid immediately 1 1/2 inches thick and rubbed in with a trowel and<br>
steadily beaten with wooden mallets. Gentle beating with not too heavy<br>
mallets. Whilst busy the 2nd layer was prepared with 10 parts finely sifted<br>
lime, 3 parts finely sifted gravel of baked bricks and 1 part Bengal gor or<br>
sediment of sugar (draf zuker = molasses). Treated the same way as the first<br>
mix and applied the same way. Finally a liquid composec of lime, oil and Gor<br>
is made with a strong hand and a smooth trowel well rubbed on the last coat.<br>
<br>
<br>
We also have a tradition of sealign earth floors here in the rural areas and<br>
on some of the old farms with either ox blood ....burnished into the clay<br>
coating or else cow dung or both. Normally the cowdung is smeared on while<br>
fresh as a thin coating ...and it hardens creating the finish (though a bit<br>
rough for my taste). However this is something done periodically to freshen<br>
up a space.<br>
<font color="#888888"><br>
Andy<br>
</font><div><div></div><div class="h5"><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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-----Original Message-----<br>
From: <a href="mailto:GSBN-bounces@greenbuilder.com">GSBN-bounces@greenbuilder.com</a> [mailto:<a href="mailto:GSBN-bounces@greenbuilder.com">GSBN-bounces@greenbuilder.com</a>]<br>
On Behalf Of Chug<br>
Sent: 08 March 2011 05:44 PM<br>
To: (private, with public archives) Global Straw Building Network<br>
Subject: Re: [GSBN] earthen floor sealer in Haiti<br>
<br>
I know a little about this from my involvement in biofuel and as Derelict<br>
wrote some oils are termed drying oils as they dry to a hard finish at<br>
normal room temperature,<br>
<br>
Dammar oil, from the Canarium strictum,<br>
Linseed oil, used in paints, also suitable for human consumption.<br>
Poppyseed oil, similar in usage to linseed oil but with better color<br>
stability.<br>
Stillingia oil (also called Chinese vegetable tallow oil), obtained by<br>
solvent from the seeds of Sapium sebiferum.<br>
Tung oil, used in wood finishing.<br>
Vernonia oil is produced from the seeds of the Vernonia galamensis.<br>
(Ironweed)<br>
<br>
In addition to the oils listed here, walnut, sunflower and safflower oil are<br>
<br>
also considered to be drying oils<br>
<br>
regards<br>
Chug<br>
<a href="mailto:chug@strawbale-building.co.uk">chug@strawbale-building.co.uk</a><br>
<a href="http://www.strawbale-building.co.uk/" target="_blank">http://www.strawbale-building.co.uk</a><br>
.<br>
<br>
<br>
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</div></div></blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><br>-- <br>Tim Owen-Kennedy, Owner<br>Vital Systems, natural building & design<br>P O Box 751, Ukiah, CA 95482<br><a href="http://www.vitalsystems.net/">www.vitalsystems.net</a><br>
888.859.6336<br>
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