[GSBN] earthen floor sealer in Haiti

[Tim Owen-Kennedy]

Briefly,

We have used Coconut oil at a clients request once because it wouldn't get
rancid. Though we have used Cheap cooking oil without complaints (based on a
workshop I took from Robert Laporte back in '95 so I don't know if that has
been thoroughly tested). If you can't find a hardening oil and with cost a
main issue I would be tempted to use filtered old cooking oil and heat it up
(if you can filter it enough).

TIm

On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 10:19 AM, Andy Horn
<andy at ecodesignarchitects.co.za>wrote:

> I have an old reciet from the 1600's here in the Cape ....also known as the
> Cape of Storms where the governor of the dutch east Indians had to ban the
> building of thatch roof buildings because of a series of devatating fires
> that were experienced at the Cape colony. So flat roofs were mandated. The
> governor sent out for a top mason to give a recipe for waterproofing of
> flatish mono pitched Giorgian type buildings. Apparently despite much
> scepticism given the ferocity of the storms we get, it worked...and indeed
> there are still the odd example to be found around.
>
> The receipt says they made use of cocoa nut oil.....
>
> 4 parts stamped lime shells taken out of the gravel of the oven (lime
> kiln),
> 2 parts ordnary masons lime, 2 parts finely powdered bricks ....well mixed
> dry, then all this was mixed with coaoa nut oil....until mixed like dough.
> Then laid immediately 1 1/2 inches thick and rubbed in with a trowel and
> steadily beaten with wooden mallets. Gentle beating with not too heavy
> mallets. Whilst busy the 2nd layer was prepared with 10 parts finely sifted
> lime, 3 parts finely sifted gravel of baked bricks and 1 part Bengal gor or
> sediment of sugar (draf zuker = molasses). Treated the same way as the
> first
> mix and applied the same way. Finally a liquid composec of lime, oil and
> Gor
> is made with a strong hand and a smooth trowel well rubbed on the last
> coat.
>
>
> We also have a tradition of sealign earth floors here in the rural areas
> and
> on some of the old farms with either ox blood ....burnished into the clay
> coating or else cow dung or both. Normally the cowdung is smeared on while
> fresh as a thin coating ...and it hardens creating the finish (though a bit
> rough for my taste). However this is something done periodically to freshen
> up a space.
>
> Andy
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: GSBN-bounces at greenbuilder.com [mailto:GSBN-bounces at greenbuilder.com]
> On Behalf Of Chug
> Sent: 08 March 2011 05:44 PM
> To: (private, with public archives) Global Straw Building Network
> Subject: Re: [GSBN] earthen floor sealer in Haiti
>
> I know a little about this from my involvement in biofuel and as Derelict
> wrote some oils are termed drying oils as they dry to a hard finish at
> normal room temperature,
>
> Dammar oil, from the Canarium strictum,
> Linseed oil, used in paints, also suitable for human consumption.
> Poppyseed oil, similar in usage to linseed oil but with better color
> stability.
> Stillingia oil (also called Chinese vegetable tallow oil), obtained by
> solvent from the seeds of Sapium sebiferum.
> Tung oil, used in wood finishing.
> Vernonia oil is produced from the seeds of the Vernonia galamensis.
> (Ironweed)
>
> In addition to the oils listed here, walnut, sunflower and safflower oil
> are
>
> also considered to be drying oils
>
> regards
> Chug
> chug at strawbale-building.co.uk
> http://www.strawbale-building.co.uk
> .
>
>
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-- 
Tim Owen-Kennedy, Owner
Vital Systems, natural building & design
P O Box 751, Ukiah, CA 95482
www.vitalsystems.net
888.859.6336
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