[GSBN] earthen floor sealer in Haiti

[Tracy Vogel]

As a project example.  Their is a 3000 sq ft floor in an historic
restoration of an adobe barn in New Mexico.  As a restoration we were
dealing with foundation and stem walls that existed - and were exposed in
areas.  We sealed with the thin >> thick regime 5 coats.  After 10 years it
has not been reworked and does get a fair amount of use.

Tracy


On 3/18/11 6:03 PM, "Derek Roff" <derek at unm.edu> wrote:

> Tracy says that a thinned linseed oil first coat penetrates more
> deeply, and Beeel says that an unthinned first coat penetrates
> enough.  Their observations are not necessarily in conflict.
> 
> Derelict
> 
> Derek Roff
> Language Learning Center
> Ortega Hall 129, MSC03-2100
> University of New Mexico
> Albuquerque, NM 87131-0001
> 505/277-7368, fax 505/277-3885
> Internet: derek at unm.edu
> 
> --On Friday, March 18, 2011 5:32 PM -0700 John Swearingen
> <jswearingen at skillful-means.com> wrote:
> 
> Although I've also asked Beeel this question about thinning, and
> received the thick>>>thin regime,  I would go with Tracy's scientific
> observations, since they also appeal to common sense and/or logic.  
>  So I wonder why Beeel's thick coat is frequently recommended, and I
> have a couple of thoughts on that..
> 
> 
> If penetration is the goal, then Tracy's thin>>>thick program would
> do the trick better.  I wonder, though, if we are we confusing about
> the proper prophylactics, that is, confusing 'penetration' with
> 'protection'.  The appealing quality of linseed (and other oils), is
> that they create a leathery coating at the top of the earthen
> surface, so a technique that forms a coating in successive layers
> would be the most successful.  Warm oil will assure easy and
> sufficient penetration and bonding, then thiner applications build up
> the protective sheath.  
> 
> 
> Just my two pesos in a wrapper about covering the earth with shoe
> leather....any more experiences to go by?
> 
> 
> John "Oiled" Swearingen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 3:17 PM, Tracy Vogel
> <tactileinteriors at hughes.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> Great discussion.  Thank you.
> 
> I¹ve just caught up and read the thread.  A couple of offerings...
> 
> First thought:  Since doing core tests of 5 different earthen floors
> sealed with linseed oil I have been a proponent of thinning the first
> layer and decreasing the thinner in successive layers.  I¹ve done it
> both ways and do agree that you don¹t need a deep penetration into
> the floor to get the benefits of the sealer.  However from the core
> samples, and other tests in my studio the regime with the first layer
> being thinned penetrates deeper.  If the floor is gauged or injured
> the deeper penetrated floor does not abrade or dust as much as the
> thinner penetrated floor.  This is convenient if one can not get to
> the repair quickly.
> 
> Second thought:  There was a floor in New Mexico that we tore out to
> replace.  It was over 45 years old and had five layers of floor that
> were laid on top of each other over the years.  The first, bottom,
> layer was a blood floor.  The regime, as I understood it from those
> who laid it, was fresh blood added to the mix with the water.  They
> also rubbed a blood clay aliz to finish it. If they could not get Ox
> blood they would use what was available, cow or elk.  As we chunked
> the layers out it was amazing in that this first layer was still much
> stronger than the ones laid on top of it.  It was easy to remove it
> cleanly from the other layers and came out in much larger plates.
> 
> Third thought:  Linseed oil in the mix.  I¹m not a big proponent of
> linseed oil at a plaster wall sealer but was faced with a strange mix
> last year that we fortified with linseed oil.  At very small
> quantities in the plaster it did not change color, became amazingly
> water resistant, stronger and yet was still repairable.  Could this
> not apply to a floor mix.  Why not put the sealer (linseed oil) in it?
> 
> Tracy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 3/18/11 8:32 AM, "Bill" <bill at caneloproject.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're going to use multiple coats of oil on the floor, don't you
> want the FIRST coat to be thinned, and therefore penetrate better,
> and then progressively thin subsequent coats less and less?
> 
> 
> So would a carpenter think so, wood is a lot less porous.  Or so I
> would say.  Therefore, we've always gotten the best results by
> applying full strength oil, letting it penetrate, which it does so
> well and then using the solvents to get a little additional oil
> soaked in.  But hey, as they say down here, every maestro has own
> libro (book of tricks) and whatever you can get to work, then that
> oughta be good.
> 
> 
> Also:  am I the only one who is uncomfortable about the idea of using
> edible oils (i.e., food) in construction?  My discomfort is partly
> because that oil is food to all sorts of critters, but also because
> one way or another you are, by using it, sort of removing it from a
> hungry person's mouth.
> 
> 
> Well since linseed = flax, flaxseed oil is clearly a food and we've
> never had problems with it especially when one considers that the oil
> is typically laced with solvents.  If you stop and think about it,
> most oils are edible in one form or another.  Haven't consumed any
> used motor oil recently, but I can assure you that the critters won't
> care for it.
> 
> At least down here, termites are the big issue and when they have
> options for mud mixes with straw, I don't think the linseed oil would
> be of much interest to them.  At least the Mexican termites don't
> seem to have an interest in flax based products.
> 
> Bill
> 
>