[GSBN] earthen floor sealer in Haiti

Wed Mar 9 16:43:52 UTC 2011

Gorblimey, Andy!  I was very interested in the recipe, but got stuck on the
Bengal Gor...is that dung of a Bengal tiger--seems a bit difficult to
obtain.  Or is it something obtained from the planet Gor--equally difficult
to obtain, but much more entertaining.  Or is it more prosaic?

John "Mundungus" Swearingen

On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 7:28 AM, Bill Steen <bill at caneloproject.com> wrote:

> Well I certainly can't talk about environments as wet as Graeme describes
> and perhaps the use of linseed oil will yield the results along the same
> lines.
> What I will add is that the type of effects being described can often
> happen when the oil doesn't penetrate well and it is left on the surface of
> the floor.
> The idea is to get it to penetrate fully and have no residual oil left on
> top.  Typically that happens as a result of applying too much oil or the
> surface of the floor being troweled to the extent that it is densely
> compacted and the oil can't penetrate.
> When it comes to hardness, I can see little need for anything that provides
> a harder surface than the linseed oil without jumping to a harder floor
> material.
> Going on to Tim's comments re: Robert Laporte on cheap cooking oil I don't
> see any basis for them.
> The only downside would be that the sealed floor would be less hard.
>
> Bill
>  Bill Steen
> bill at caneloproject.com
> www.caneloproject.com
> www.caneloproject.blogspot.com
> HC1 Box 324
> Elgin, AZ85611
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mar 8, 2011, at 3:09 PM, Graeme North wrote:
>
> Boiled linseed oil toughens and seals - but it is inclined to pick up
> moisture in high humidity situations and go sticky -  this is a problem in
> my own place in high summer with humidities approaching 100% and chair, and
> table legs stick to the floor surface and pull the surface off the floor - a
> bit messy.  This floor was saturated with linseed oil mind you - nearly 4
> litres per sq.m.  A great surface apart from this issue.
>
> Tung oil, unlike linseed oil which forms single linkages, forms double
> linkages that make for  a tougher surface which is less inclined to pick up
> humidity, so I tend to use this now, more sparingly as it is more expensive
> too.  A bit of cow dung in the mix forms a wonderful satiny surface to the
> floor.
>
> I have passed some of this query on to a paint and oil natural oil expert I
> know on these matters  - hopefully he can cast some light  on this for us
>
> cheers
>
>  Graeme ("stuck down") North
> Graeme North Architects
> 49 Matthew Road
> RD1
> Warkworth
> tel/fax +64 (0)9 4259305
>
> graeme at ecodesign.co.nz
> www.ecodesign.co.nz
>
>
> On 9/03/2011, at 7:41 AM, Tim Owen-Kennedy wrote:
>
> Briefly,
>
> We have used Coconut oil at a clients request once because it wouldn't get
> rancid. Though we have used Cheap cooking oil without complaints (based on a
> workshop I took from Robert Laporte back in '95 so I don't know if that has
> been thoroughly tested). If you can't find a hardening oil and with cost a
> main issue I would be tempted to use filtered old cooking oil and heat it up
> (if you can filter it enough).
>
> TIm
>
> On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 10:19 AM, Andy Horn <andy at ecodesignarchitects.co.za
> > wrote:
>
>> I have an old reciet from the 1600's here in the Cape ....also known as
>> the
>> Cape of Storms where the governor of the dutch east Indians had to ban the
>> building of thatch roof buildings because of a series of devatating fires
>> that were experienced at the Cape colony. So flat roofs were mandated. The
>> governor sent out for a top mason to give a recipe for waterproofing of
>> flatish mono pitched Giorgian type buildings. Apparently despite much
>> scepticism given the ferocity of the storms we get, it worked...and indeed
>> there are still the odd example to be found around.
>>
>> The receipt says they made use of cocoa nut oil.....
>>
>> 4 parts stamped lime shells taken out of the gravel of the oven (lime
>> kiln),
>> 2 parts ordnary masons lime, 2 parts finely powdered bricks ....well mixed
>> dry, then all this was mixed with coaoa nut oil....until mixed like dough.
>> Then laid immediately 1 1/2 inches thick and rubbed in with a trowel and
>> steadily beaten with wooden mallets. Gentle beating with not too heavy
>> mallets. Whilst busy the 2nd layer was prepared with 10 parts finely
>> sifted
>> lime, 3 parts finely sifted gravel of baked bricks and 1 part Bengal gor
>> or
>> sediment of sugar (draf zuker = molasses). Treated the same way as the
>> first
>> mix and applied the same way. Finally a liquid composec of lime, oil and
>> Gor
>> is made with a strong hand and a smooth trowel well rubbed on the last
>> coat.
>>
>>
>> We also have a tradition of sealign earth floors here in the rural areas
>> and
>> on some of the old farms with either ox blood ....burnished into the clay
>> coating or else cow dung or both. Normally the cowdung is smeared on while
>> fresh as a thin coating ...and it hardens creating the finish (though a
>> bit
>> rough for my taste). However this is something done periodically to
>> freshen
>> up a space.
>>
>> Andy
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: GSBN-bounces at greenbuilder.com [mailto:GSBN-bounces at greenbuilder.com
>> ]
>> On Behalf Of Chug
>> Sent: 08 March 2011 05:44 PM
>> To: (private, with public archives) Global Straw Building Network
>> Subject: Re: [GSBN] earthen floor sealer in Haiti
>>
>> I know a little about this from my involvement in biofuel and as Derelict
>> wrote some oils are termed drying oils as they dry to a hard finish at
>> normal room temperature,
>>
>> Dammar oil, from the Canarium strictum,
>> Linseed oil, used in paints, also suitable for human consumption.
>> Poppyseed oil, similar in usage to linseed oil but with better color
>> stability.
>> Stillingia oil (also called Chinese vegetable tallow oil), obtained by
>> solvent from the seeds of Sapium sebiferum.
>> Tung oil, used in wood finishing.
>> Vernonia oil is produced from the seeds of the Vernonia galamensis.
>> (Ironweed)
>>
>> In addition to the oils listed here, walnut, sunflower and safflower oil
>> are
>>
>> also considered to be drying oils
>>
>> regards
>> Chug
>> chug at strawbale-building.co.uk
>> http://www.strawbale-building.co.uk
>> .
>>
>>
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>
>
>
> --
> Tim Owen-Kennedy, Owner
> Vital Systems, natural building & design
> P O Box 751, Ukiah, CA 95482
> www.vitalsystems.net
> 888.859.6336
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-- 
John Swearingen
Skillful Means Design & Construction
2550 9th Street   Suite 209A
Berkeley, CA   94710
510.849.1800 phone
510.849.1900 fax

Web Site:  http://www.skillful-means.com
Blog:         https://skillfulmeansdesign.wordpress.com
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