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Hi, Lars,
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<div class="">Is the Danish air leakage standard based on interior floor area of the structure, or on some other measurement? For the average house, green or otherwise, most air leakage comes from the interface between materials. Cracks at the top and bottoms
of walls, around doors and windows, fireplaces, bathtubs, and so on. I’m not sure if you are referring to trying to seal these kinds of joints/cracks in your description of the Danish traditional method. I would like to understand more. </div>
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<div class="">Derek<br class="">
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Derek Roff</div>
<div class=""><a href="mailto:derek@unm.edu" class="">derek@unm.edu</a></div>
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<div class="">On Jun 27, 2018, at 3:48 AM, Lars Keller <<a href="mailto:larskeller@gmail.com" class="">larskeller@gmail.com</a>> wrote:</div>
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<div dir="auto" class="">The Danish traditional method is the following:</div>
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<div dir="auto" class="">Inside.</div>
<div dir="auto" class="">- lime mortar / wooden fillet</div>
<div dir="auto" class="">- stuffing with (tarred) hemp-fibres</div>
<div dir="auto" class="">- air lime mortars</div>
<div dir="auto" class="">Outside</div>
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<div dir="auto" class="">In the recent years the Danish building regulations have introduced airtightness. At the moment the requirement is max 1,0 liter pr m2 pr second @ 50 pascal, and the (voluntary) low energy class has 0,5 l m2 s.</div>
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<div dir="auto" class="">My question is if anyone has any methods with sustainable methods that creates a water diffusion open airtight sealing ?</div>
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<div dir="auto" class="">Best, Lars</div>
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