<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" http-equiv=Content-Type>
<META name=GENERATOR content="MSHTML 9.00.8112.16800">
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY
style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial, sans-serif; WORD-WRAP: break-word; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); FONT-SIZE: 12px; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space"
bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Hi All</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Throwing my tuppence into the mix from the Emerald Isle -
famously green due to our impressive levels of rain.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>While you may succeed in drying out the walls, the weather
will keep on doing what it does ... and with climate change, it will only get
worse. We are definitely noticing an increase in frequency/intensity of winter
storms and in wetter summers here (oh joy!). </FONT><FONT size=2>In our
practice, we never specify lime applied directly on to bales. It just cannot
cope with the external moisture loads inflicted on it. There are too many
stories of rotting bale walls in Ireland. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>While there has been some discussion that the moisture levels
recorded in these bales are not over concerning (yet), the fact that there is an
appalling smell is a pretty good indicator that all is not well (as long as
other sources have been ruled out).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Martin mentioned the building paper and that we don't know
what it is. We have heard reports of buildings where the construction moisture
levels were so high, that micro-porous breather membranes were overwhelmed by
the amount of water vapour trying to pass through as the building dried out and
basically self-sealed .... thereby creating a situation where moisture became
trapped in the building - not good. This has been reported a few times for roof
construction, not for walls. But there is no reason why it might not be
happening in walls - it is just much more obvious when you are sitting in an
attic space and drips are rolling off the membrane. So when we can, we specify
cellular membranes like Intello - which act by osmosis (and can reverse
direction of vapour flow depending on vapour pressure loadings internally and
externally), rather than the micro-porous membranes.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I would recommend adding a rain screen, as advised by John and
others. In Ireland, we design to keep the rain out and then we design another
line of defence for when the rain breaches the first detail ..... and we have to
design for horizontal and even upward driving rain.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>If this building was in Ireland, I would recommend drying it
out by whatever means necessary. If it means pulling off the lime render, then
so be it and I would then wrap the bales externally with a cellular-based
membrane (if the clients can afford it). </FONT><FONT size=2>If they can dry out
the bales without removing the lime, then this should be adequate as the second
line of defence and the addition of the cellular membrane would not be
necessary.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>If they want the appearance of a solid render, rather than
timber boards, then I would fix 50mm vertical battens to the dried-out bales
(covered with lime or with an appropriate membrane) to form a drainage channel
and ventilation space. Then apply render carrier boards. Ensure that ventilation
is retained at the top and bottom of these boards. To save money, as there
is a ventilated cavity behind, these can be cement based (i.e.they don't need to
be breathable). Or the client can go full eco if they can afford it. Install
anti-vermin steel mesh at the bottom, but ensure that the cavity is still
ventilated and can drain out. Then apply lime render to the boards. Use a good
multi-direction mesh where the render boards connect back into the other
elevations.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>If the clients are happy to have vertical timber boards,
I would still install 50mm vertical battens behind the horizontal battens
(fixings for the vertical boards). Having a clear flowing drainage cavity
(uninhibited by horizontal battens) is key to keeping the rest of the building
dry.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>As the overhang is reasonable, you should not need to extend
the roof, as this detail can take a whole heap of rain. Only the window reveals
and cills will increase. I recommend a min. 50mm overhang for cills to throw
rain off the wall below.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Cheers</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Feile</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Feile Butler</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2><A
href="mailto:feile@mudandwood.com">feile@mudandwood.com</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2><A href="http://www.mudandwood.com">www.mudandwood.com</A>
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=mfhammer@pacbell.net href="mailto:mfhammer@pacbell.net">Martin
Hammer</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=GSBN@SustainableSources.com
href="mailto:GSBN@SustainableSources.com">GSBN</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, April 07, 2017 4:58
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [GSBN] URGENT! Drying
moisture out of SB walls</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Hi all,</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>I agree with Derek that the straw close to the exterior could have a
moisture content significantly higher than the readings provided. Especially
near the bottom of the wall. I suggest the owners obtain a longer probe or
drill holes in at least a few places in the exterior plaster in the bottom
third of the wall to take readings for the first few inches of straw. Enough
to get a clue about the highest moisture content of the straw in the
walls.</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>One fact about the wall assembly that hasn’t been mentioned by the GSBN
moisture sleuths is that it has two layers of building paper between the
plaster and the bales. This could be a benefit (allowing less water that has
penetrated the plaster to reach the straw) or a detriment (inhibiting the
release of moisture in the straw to the outside air, depending on its vapor
permeability). And we don’t know exactly what the “building paper” is. I
imagine that if water penetrated the plaster, and if the paper was installed
properly, almost all of that water would be stopped by the two layers of
paper, except maybe at fastener penetrations or tears in the paper. Gravity
should then pull the water down and out, but only if there is sufficient means
of safe escape at the bottom of the paper/plaster.</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>A four foot overhang is substantial, but apparently not enough for this
exposure/climate. David’s idea of a 10’ porch overhang certainly is one way to
solve the problem. Or an exterior cladding suggest by Derek and John. Or
regarding water repellent, colleagues in northern California have claimed
success using siloxane over lime or cement-lime plaster on straw bale walls.
It repels water but maintains good vapor permeability (I don’t know a perm
rating). I’m not sure if has been used successfully over clay paster.</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>One other thought is regarding the use of heat on the interior to drive
moisture to the exterior. Wouldn’t that pull the moisture to the drier/warmer
interior instead, or do I have my moisture mechanics backward.</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Cheers,</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Martin </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV><B style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><I><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 7.5pt">Martin
Hammer, Architect<BR></SPAN></I></B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 7.5pt">1348 Hopkins St.<BR>Berkeley, CA
94702</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 7.5pt">510-525-0525
(office)</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 7.5pt">510-684-4488
(cell)</SPAN></DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><SPAN id=OLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION>
<DIV
style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; TEXT-ALIGN: left; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-TOP: #b5c4df 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-TOP: 3pt"><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From: </SPAN>Gsbn <<A
href="mailto:gsbn-bounces@sustainablesources.com">gsbn-bounces@sustainablesources.com</A>>
on behalf of Derek Roff <<A
href="mailto:derek@unm.edu">derek@unm.edu</A>><BR><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Reply-To: </SPAN>GSBN <<A
href="mailto:GSBN@SustainableSources.com">GSBN@SustainableSources.com</A>><BR><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Date: </SPAN>Thursday, April 6, 2017 at 6:18
PM<BR><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To: </SPAN>GSBN <<A
href="mailto:GSBN@SustainableSources.com">GSBN@SustainableSources.com</A>><BR><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subject: </SPAN>Re: [GSBN] URGENT! Drying moisture
out of SB walls<BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV
style="WORD-WRAP: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space">I’m
concerned that we don’t have enough data on current moisture levels near the
exterior of the wall. If rain has entered the straw through the exterior
plaster, because of the extreme wind and rain, the straw might be several
percentage points wetter in the first few inches under the exterior plaster
skin. As I understand the moisture testing done so far, the readings
have been taken from the inside, and the probe probably never got closer than
6” or further from the outside plaster. I’m sure that there is a desire
to avoid adding visible holes/patches to the outside plaster, but if this
hesitation leads to severe decay in the straw, that is obviously a poor
trade-off.
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>One thing we can be certain of is that extreme, nearly horizontal rain
has been hitting these walls. This year may have been worse than
average, but it is poor strategy to suppose that the same or worse won’t
happen again in other years. That suggests that a physical barrier is
needed to protect these walls, along the lines of the ventilated rain screen
that John Straube described. The probability, and in my view, the
certainty, that the exterior plaster needs to be covered, ought to decrease
the worries about drilling a few holes in the exterior plaster, in order to
take additional moisture readings. </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Derek<BR>
<DIV>
<DIV
style="TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; FONT-VARIANT: normal; FONT-STYLE: normal; TEXT-INDENT: 0px; LETTER-SPACING: normal; FONT-FAMILY: Helvetica; WORD-WRAP: break-word; WHITE-SPACE: normal; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; WORD-SPACING: 0px; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px">
<DIV><BR class=Apple-interchange-newline>Derek Roff</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:derek@unm.edu">derek@unm.edu</A></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV></DIV><BR
style="TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; FONT-VARIANT: normal; FONT-STYLE: normal; TEXT-INDENT: 0px; LETTER-SPACING: normal; FONT-FAMILY: Helvetica; WHITE-SPACE: normal; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; WORD-SPACING: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px"
class=Apple-interchange-newline><BR class=Apple-interchange-newline></DIV><BR>
<DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite">
<DIV>On Apr 6, 2017, at 6:21 PM, Paula Baker-Laporte FAIA <<A
href="mailto:paula@econest.com">paula@econest.com</A>> wrote:</DIV><BR
class=Apple-interchange-newline>
<DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr>We have used Keim liquid silicate coatings over earth plasters
in an area that was very susceptable to erosion from driving rain and had
great success with it. They make many different products and do a lot of
restorations with it in Europe and so I imagine they have a solution to use
over lime. Coatings are clear or pigmented. They can also do very exact
color matching if a sample is sent to them. <A
href="http://www.keimpaints.co.uk/about_us/comparison_of_keim_mineral_paints_and_limewash/">http://www.keimpaints.co.uk/about_us/comparison_of_keim_mineral_paints_and_limewash/</A></DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_extra><BR>
<DIV class=gmail_quote>On Thu, Apr 6, 2017 at 2:19 PM, John Straube <SPAN
dir=ltr><<A href="mailto:jfstraube@gmail.com"
target=_blank>jfstraube@gmail.com</A>></SPAN> wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; PADDING-LEFT: 1ex"
class=gmail_quote>Hi all<BR>Interesting case because it looks like they
did almost everything correctly. I am sorry to hear of their bad luck. The
photo is quite telling, but I do wonder how the rain is getting in
at that angle (other than stupidly high levels of wind)<BR>I agree with
you Dave that the numbers are not “run for the hills” but they are
worrisome.<BR>Definitely worth checking for any of the obvious bulk water
flaws and being more careful and complete in your MC
measurements.<BR><BR>I can be certain of one thing … there is definitely
an amount of rain that will over whelm the lime plaster, and cause wetting
of the straw. That amount depends on the drying potential of the
climate and the lime plaster thickness and properties. Nothing magic
about lime, it is just better than cement, and much better than
unite.<BR><BR>It is expensive and invasive to dry the wall by
drilling holes and blowing dry air. The hard part is the machine
with dry air (desiccant driers are available from flood restoration
companies). One could simply blow heater air into holes… easier,
still annoying.<BR>I would consider hanging a dark coloured (to collect
solar heat) tarp or geotextile from the overhang edge/gutter to the grade
to act as a highly ventilated (critical), rain screen. This will
stop further wetting and along drying.<BR>Also, adding heat to the inside
will be helpful: increases the interior temperature where wetness is
evident by even 5 degrees will help, although a steady and spatially
uniform 10 or more will really make a difference in a matter of
weeks. I know people who have used arrays of heat lamps, plug in
electric heaters with the door closed, and stoked up wood stoves to drive
moisture out of walls.<BR><BR>If the MC can get below 20% or so, then I
think you have a lot of time to design an upgrade… almost all coatings
have limits and are not as good as a real over clad. Xypex is a pore
blocker (hence reduces vapor permeance) that reacts with alkalinity to
form calcium silicates. Could work well with fresh lime, but
probably wont work well with the exterior carbonated surface of the
lime. I would be quite skeptical of most coatings… products like
Silanes certainly work and can make a pretty big difference, we just dont
know if they make enough of a difference.<BR><BR>If acceptable, it is
pretty cheap and simple to install horizontal 1x4’s with 45 degree sawn
top edges over the lime plaster at, say 36” on centre or so, then add
vertical boards with generous joints. Or add vertical 1x4 and
clapboard siding (much more effective at rain shedding). This will
reduce the wetting by a factor of 10 or more, and only slow drying by a
bit (if well ventilated) so a pretty massive improvement and certain to
solve driving rain problems (if that is what this is).<BR>Planting a hedge
and some trees a dozen yards upwind would also be a good idea.<BR>More
good pictures like that one sent would possibly help provide more
ideas.<BR><BR>John<BR><BR><BR>> On Apr 5, 2017, at 7:42 PM, David
Arkin, AIA <<A
href="mailto:david@arkintilt.com">david@arkintilt.com</A>>
wrote:<BR>><BR>> Hello Global Balers:<BR>><BR>> A CASBA
member poses the questions outlined in the situation below. I’ve
attached my responses below the query and photo, and invite any of you to
weigh in with further recommendations, follow-up questions or anecdotes
that may be useful.<BR>><BR>> Best,<BR>><BR>> David Arkin,
AIA, Director<BR>> California Straw Building
Association<BR>><BR>> ps: Joins us for CASBA’s 2017 Spring
Conference, May 5-7 in the San Francisco Bay Area, featuring architect
Craig White of the U.K.: "Towards a Photosynthetic Architecture -
Renewable Buildings for the Circular Carbon Economy”.
Registration is open: <A
href="http://www.strawbuilding.org/event-2497515" rel=noreferrer
target=_blank>http://www.strawbuilding.org/<WBR>event-2497515</A><BR>><BR>>
* * * * *<BR>><BR>> I’m hoping you can
address some of my questions or direct me to anyone with experience
dealing with this problem, or anyone who has any insights into causes and
solutions.<BR>><BR>> I was contacted this morning by a client just
south of Portland who has measured high levels of moisture in their straw
bale walls, and is asking for advice on how to deal with the
problem.<BR>><BR>> The core questions I have are
these:<BR>><BR>> 1. Assuming there isn’t a
bulk water leak from the roof, downspout, or window, can wind-driven rain
account for high levels of moisture in a straw bale wall assembly?
In other words, what does it take for a properly installed lime plaster to
be overwhelmed by wind-driven rain?<BR>><BR>> 2.
What are the options for drying the wall out? Waiting
for dry weather (summer!) may not be an option as wet straw bales
may not survive that long.<BR>><BR>> 3.
Once the wall is dried out, assuming there isn’t significant
permanent damage to the bales, what surface treatments are available that
would prevent liquid moisture from soaking into the walls, yet keep them
vapor permeable. I can imagine several landscaping and rain
screen (siding) solutions, but am not familiar with surface
treatments.<BR>><BR>> Background Information.<BR>><BR>>
Details about the wall assembly. The SB walls are on a raised
floor. The space between the sill plates was filled with rock
wool insulation and capped with 1Ž2” plywood to handle the bale
weight. The wall assembly has 2-string rice straw bales laid flat,
and is part of the building’s shear wall system, using 17 gauge lath and
lime plaster (exterior and interior). Instead of applying a
finish coat of lime plaster the client chose to apply a lime based paint
from BioShield. I didn’t plaster the structure or apply the
lime paint, but believe it was done by capable professionals in accordance
with best practices. The bales were stack in April-May of
2016. Bale wall moisture readings just prior to plastering
averaged 14.1%. The wall was prepped to receive a lime
plaster—2-layer building paper stapled to all wood framing, shingled to
shed water, etc. The windows have sills, the 4’ roof overhangs are
guttered and the downspout installed properly. The walls were
plastered during late spring and early summer. Three coats of
exterior lime paint were applied in late summer-early fall.
When I visited in November, I saw vertical cracks at the corners only
(where I always see them, regardless of how much corner-aid or exp. metal
lath is underneath!).<BR>><BR>> Building site. The house is
located in an open field and has no barriers to wind driven rain.
The general contractor, who happens to live next-door, told me the
field is like a wind tunnel. He reported that since it began raining
in the fall of 2016 he hasn’t seen the walls look dry more than a dozen
times.<BR>><BR>> The problem first came to my attention about a
month ago when the client told me they smelled something awful in one of
their rooms—the one with the most weather exposure (S. W. corner of
building, labeled “office” on the plans). I haven’t visited
the site, but advised them to first investigate and rule out all the other
likely possible causes for an odor (e.g. decomposing straw piled near the
house, something else rotting in the crawl space, etc.), and if the odor
persisted, to gather quantifiable information, including using a moisture
meter probed into the wall near outlets, which they have now done, (see
below).<BR>><BR>> <image001.png><BR>><BR>><BR>>
<image002.png><BR>><BR>> The office is in the S. W. corner of
the structure. I’m not familiar with the probe they used, but it’s
likely that the shaft is about 18” long, and if used as described to me,
“poked in a 45 degree angle from the interior of the wall near the
outlets”, probably penetrated about 5” into the wall when it reads 8”, and
about 12” into the wall where the chart says “full in.” From all the
points they gathered data, moisture readings were higher towards the
exterior of the wall.<BR>><BR>> My understanding is that lime
plasters will absorb and then release liquid moisture from wind driven
rain, and are quite able to handle regular, frequent wettings without
compromising the straw beneath. If bulk water isn’t entering
the wall through a breach in the flashing or another leak of some kind, is
it possible that an unusually wet winter (I believe the Willamette Valley
is experiencing a well-above average rainfall year like much of the west
coast) could create the moisture levels seen below? Is it
possible that the water is soaking in, and just keeps soaking in,
unable to dry out because of the constant rains?<BR>> <wind driven
rain on lime plastered SB wall, S exposure..jpg><BR>><BR>>
* * * * *<BR>><BR>> [Arkin comments in
reply]<BR>><BR>> The moisture readings aren’t as high as I would’ve
guessed based on your description … that’s perhaps good news. We had
a wall at the Real Goods Solar Living Center that was an exterior site
wall with very little overhang, and it would get pounded by the
rain. We had a moisture reading over 50%! However, in
Hopland’s sunny hot climate it dried out between rains and now with a new
broad overhang it is doing fine, 20+ years later. Similarly a small
outbuilding on that same site was flooded to the middle of the second
level of bales. It was earth plastered and we advised to simply let
it be and see what happens. The building has no windows or doors
(it’s a ‘welcome pavilion’) and once again it dried out promptly and has
been fine.<BR>><BR>> At the same time, I’m recalling an olive oil
facility that was on top of a hill in San Luis Obispo County, that had
wind-driven rain penetrate cracks in the Gunite finish on their bale
walls, to the point of black goo oozing out the base. That’s when
you know you have real trouble. They drilled holes and drove air
into the bottom of the walls, and also put a layer of breathable
waterproofing on the exterior of the walls. Similar to your case
here, it was the windward side that had the worst problems, but rain
swirling around the building caused some issues on the leeward side
too.<BR>><BR>> Here are my opinions on your questions, but let me be
the first to admit there are others who could answer these better than
me:<BR>><BR>> 1. The photo sure makes it look like wind driven
rain, and at quite an angle! Another 10’ of overhang (aka a porch)
along that facade seems in order. Exactly how much moisture it takes to
overwhelm a lime plaster wall is difficult to say. I’m recalling
studies done by the University of Bath that placed plastered wall samples
in very exposed marine climates to determine this. You might search
for this, perhaps starting with EBNet’s BuildWell Library. Bruce
King may be able to connect you with Pete Walker, or you could try to
reach him directly.<BR>><BR>> 2. Again, the numbers aren’t so
high that invasive measures need to be taken. I’d suggest putting
some more powerful heaters on the interior, and aim to drive the moisture
out toward the exterior. At the same time they should deploy tarps
or some other means of keeping wind driven rain off the walls going
forward, but let the sun and warmth at them otherwise.<BR>><BR>>
3. Again, my first suggestion is a longer porch roof along that
whole facade, perhaps with some landscaping or something to break up the
laminar wind. I suppose a deployable system of a rain screen of some
sort could also be used. Allowing the walls to see sun this spring
and summer will be good though. Xypex is a product that folks have
applied to walls, but I’m more familiar with its application on cement
stucco than lime, so research that a bit first. David Easton
suggests Glaze ’n’ Seal on his earth walls. I believe both have that
waterproofing effect while still remaining breathable.<BR>><BR>> As
you know, both the plaster and the straw have a significant capacity to
store and release moisture, and it seems they are doing exactly
that. I can’t say for certain, but this being their first season
they may not be damaged to the point of needing to be replaced, but the
smell detected is concerning. Getting them to dry and then keeping
them dry going forward is key, and if necessary some replacement may be
needed, but I’d advise trying to avoid that first.<BR>><BR>> *
* * * *<BR>> Arkin Tilt Architects<BR>> Ecological
Planning & Design<BR>><BR>> Please Support (or Join?!) my 2017
Climate Ride (bicycling 300 miles from SF to SLO, June 9-13, with a
fundraising goal of $5,000 to support Straw-Bale outreach)<BR>> <A
href="http://support.climateride.org/index.cfm?fuseaction=donorDrive.participant&participantID=4497"
rel=noreferrer
target=_blank>http://support.climateride.<WBR>org/index.cfm?fuseaction=<WBR>donorDrive.participant&<WBR>participantID=4497</A><BR>>
Thank you!<BR>><BR>> David Arkin, AIA, Architect<BR>> LEED
Accredited Professional<BR>> CA #C22459/NV #5030<BR>><BR>> 1101
8th St. #180, Berkeley, CA 94710<BR>> <A
href="tel:510%2F528-9830%20ext.%202%23" value="+15105289830">510/528-9830
ext. 2#</A><BR>> <A href="http://www.arkintilt.com/" rel=noreferrer
target=_blank>www.arkintilt.com</A><BR>><BR>> "There is no way to
peace. Peace is the way."<BR>> — A. J.
Muste<BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>>
______________________________<WBR>_________________<BR>> Gsbn mailing
list<BR>> <A
href="mailto:Gsbn@sustainablesources.com">Gsbn@sustainablesources.com</A><BR>>
<A href="http://sustainablesources.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/gsbn"
rel=noreferrer
target=_blank>http://sustainablesources.com/<WBR>mailman/listinfo.cgi/gsbn</A><BR><BR>______________________________<WBR>_________________<BR>Gsbn
mailing list<BR><A
href="mailto:Gsbn@sustainablesources.com">Gsbn@sustainablesources.com</A><BR><A
href="http://sustainablesources.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/gsbn"
rel=noreferrer
target=_blank>http://sustainablesources.com/<WBR>mailman/listinfo.cgi/gsbn</A><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV><BR><BR
clear=all>
<DIV><BR></DIV>-- <BR>
<DIV class=gmail_signature data-smartmail="gmail_signature">
<DIV dir=ltr>
<DIV>Paula Baker-Laporte FAIA,BBEC<BR>Econest Architecture Inc.<BR><A
href="http://www.econest.com/" target=_blank>www.EcoNest.com</A><BR><A
href="mailto:paula@econest.com"
target=_blank>paula@econest.com</A><BR>Phone:
541.488.9508<BR></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV>_______________________________________________<BR>Gsbn
mailing list<BR><A
href="mailto:Gsbn@sustainablesources.com">Gsbn@sustainablesources.com</A><BR><A
href="http://sustainablesources.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/gsbn">http://sustainablesources.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/gsbn</A><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV><BR></DIV></DIV></DIV>_______________________________________________
Gsbn mailing list <A
href="mailto:Gsbn@sustainablesources.com">Gsbn@sustainablesources.com</A> <A
href="http://sustainablesources.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/gsbn">http://sustainablesources.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/gsbn</A>
</SPAN>
<P>
<HR>
<P></P>_______________________________________________<BR>Gsbn mailing
list<BR>Gsbn@sustainablesources.com<BR>http://sustainablesources.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/gsbn<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>