<html><head></head><body data-blackberry-caret-color="#00a8df" style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); line-height: initial;"><div style="width: 100%; font-size: initial; font-family: Calibri, 'Slate Pro', sans-serif; color: rgb(31, 73, 125); text-align: initial; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">Hi Enga</div><div style="width: 100%; font-size: initial; font-family: Calibri, 'Slate Pro', sans-serif; color: rgb(31, 73, 125); text-align: initial; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">Things like this are my specialty so I am comfortable weighing in. Yes a large (to minimize laps) roll of strong sheet (to resist wind gusts) like intello or more affordable Tyvek or Hardie wrap or whatever would be great sandwiched between the wood ceiling and the rafters. Care is needed at partition walls light fixtures and wiring and plumbing penetrations but it certainly is and can be a good way to make an air barrier. </div><div style="width: 100%; font-size: initial; font-family: Calibri, 'Slate Pro', sans-serif; color: rgb(31, 73, 125); text-align: initial; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><br name="BB10" caretmarkerset="INVALID" class="markedForCaretMarkerRemoval"></div> <div style="width: 100%; font-size: initial; font-family: Calibri, 'Slate Pro', sans-serif; color: rgb(31, 73, 125); text-align: initial; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><br style="display:initial"></div> <div style="font-size: initial; font-family: Calibri, 'Slate Pro', sans-serif; color: rgb(31, 73, 125); text-align: initial; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Bell network.</div> <table width="100%" style="background-color:white;border-spacing:0px;"> <tbody><tr><td colspan="2" style="font-size: initial; text-align: initial; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"> <div id="_persistentHeader" style="border-style: solid none none; border-top-color: rgb(181, 196, 223); border-top-width: 1pt; padding: 3pt 0in 0in; font-family: Tahoma, 'BB Alpha Sans', 'Slate Pro'; font-size: 10pt;"> <div><b>From: </b>Enga Lokey</div><div><b>Sent: </b>Wednesday, November 19, 2014 20:46</div><div><b>To: </b>Global Straw Building Network</div><div><b>Reply To: </b>Global Straw Building Network</div><div><b>Subject: </b>[GSBN] air barrier</div></div></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="border-style: solid none none; border-top-color: rgb(186, 188, 209); border-top-width: 1pt; font-size: initial; text-align: initial; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"></div><br><div id="_originalContent" style=""><base href="x-msg://83/"><div>G'day all,</div><div><br></div><div>I have been getting conflicting info on a ceiling air barrier, so I would love it if some of you that have experience in this realm would like to weigh in on the confusion.... or solution. I realise that a tongue and groove cathedral ceiling is a potential nightmare for air exchange. I realise that drywall can be installed airtight. It is claimed that air barrier wrap such as Intello can be used between the rafters and the ceiling lining boards to create an air barrier, thus the lining boards leak like a sieve and the roof cavity does not get air from inside. Can anyone confirm if an air barrier used in this position would be effective? With usual detailing of air-sealing at penetrations and wall/ceiling interface of course.</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks for any bits of wisdom.</div><div><br></div><div>Enga Lokey</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px; ">Natimuk </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-size: medium; "><div style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; "><div style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; "><div><div>Australia</div></div></div></span></div></span><br><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-size: medium; "><div style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; "><div style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; "><div><div><br></div><div><a href="mailto:enga@thelokeys.net">enga@thelokeys.net</a></div></div><div><br></div></div></span><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"></div></span><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"></span><br class="Apple-interchange-newline">
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<br><div><div>On 18/11/2014, at 2:31 PM, douglas nichols wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote type="cite"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; font-family: Helvetica; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-size: medium; "><div class="hmmessage" style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: Calibri; "><div dir="ltr">Hi Ian<div><br></div><div>I've come upon this similar tie in when attaching gable trusses with a tall energy heel. Sheeting over wood bond beam up onto the truss heel with continuous ply makes for a very strong connection (sheer and uplift) and I have not had to do any special crack protection. That being said, proper straw bale to wood plaster techniques are crucial. My process is: fill any gap between wood bond beam and straw bales with straw clay, next 2 ply stucco paper over the sheeting (slip plane is a must I feel in these large exterior sheeting / plaster scenarios), 6 inch lap of lathing onto straw (if your not lathing entire building), and continuous slip coat from straw to lathing. I use wet clay slip pushed into the bales and then add straw (lots of it) to the clay to go over the prepped area this gives a very similar monolithic substrate (with high tensile strength from all the straw) for the next plaster layers. You can always bed some big pieces of fiberglass mesh (or other type) in the brown or finish coat (I've started doing this at all corners of openings to reduce cracking). Out of curiosity how will deal with overhang? Will the top cord of the truss run long? <br><br></div><div><div><b>Doug Nichols</b></div><div><b>Natural Building Instructor</b></div><div><b>Community Rebuilds</b></div><div><b>Moab Utah</b></div><div><b><a href="http://www.communtityrebuilds.org">www.communtityrebuilds.org</a></b></div><div><b><br></b></div><div><hr id="stopSpelling">Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2014 15:26:10 -0700<br>From:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><a href="mailto:ian@lopezsmolensengineers.com">ian@lopezsmolensengineers.com</a><br>To:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><a href="mailto:gsbn@sustainablesources.com">gsbn@sustainablesources.com</a><br>Subject: [GSBN] Plaster detail at Bale/Plywood Interface<br><br><div dir="ltr"><div><div><div>Hi everyone,<br><br></div>I'm currently helping with the design of a one-story SB house with a rectangular footprint and a simple shed roof. The SB walls will be constructed with a wood bond beam that's in the horizontal plane around the whole perimeter of the house, supported on wood posts. Prefabricated wood trusses will then bear on top of these beams. The trusses will have a "right triangle" shape to create the shed roof and a flat ceiling on the interior.<br><br>On the higher side walls of the trusses, the owner would like to have plaster continue all the way up to the underside of the roof (actually, to the underside of the roof sheathing), with minimal trim/flashing, etc. at the interface/transition between the straw bales and the plywood.<br><br></div>I've already mentioned to him that there's the possibility that that plaster will crack at this interface (due to the differences in substrate material, plaster thickness, etc), and I've suggested that there be a control joint in the plaster, or a piece of trim with flashing or something.<br><br>I'm just wondering how the rest of you prefer to deal with this detail...<br><br></div>Thanks very much,<br><div><div><br clear="all"><div><div><div><div class="ecxgmail_signature">Ian Smith, P.E.<br></div><div class="ecxgmail_signature">Boulder, CO, USA<br></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><br>_______________________________________________ GSBN mailing list<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><a href="mailto:GSBN@sustainablesources.com">GSBN@sustainablesources.com</a><a href="http://sustainablesources.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/GSBN">http://sustainablesources.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/GSBN</a></div></div></div>_______________________________________________<br>GSBN mailing list<br><a href="mailto:GSBN@sustainablesources.com">GSBN@sustainablesources.com</a><br><a href="http://sustainablesources.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/GSBN">http://sustainablesources.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/GSBN</a><br></div></span></blockquote></div><br><br><!--end of _originalContent --></div></body></html>