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I can't speak much to elevation here in the northeastern US - we
have just a smattering of peaks above 4K' - but I can say regarding
high ambient humidity, abundant rainfall, extended periods of no
sun, and pretty dramatic cold temperatures, we've had repeated and
sustained success building with straw bale wall assemblies -
provided the detailing is accurate to the climate!<br>
<br>
We've built over Durisol blocks on quite a few projects. Sometimes
it works out great for the 14" blocks to line up with a 14" bale on
edge (we've done this a few times to get the bales up off the
slab/exterior grade for slab-on-grade situations). Often, it's not
that simple, and there is a floor diaphragm in between, or some
other factor complicating the geometry. This all depends on the
type and location of the structural framing (structural bale wall v.
interior post-and-beam v. exterior stud wall, for example), but
probably the easiest solution is to frame a floor deck over the
foundation walls, and build the bales atop the floor frame. This
allows you to easily provide blocking where necessary in the floor
framing to provide structural continuity, and allows you to be much
more flexible with the planes and thicknesses of your assembly
components. Other issues crop up, such as air-sealing and
insulating the floor frame, and again ensuring there are clear and
easily-defined load paths from the structural plane of the walls
through the floor assembly onto the structural plane of the Durisol
(which if memory serves is about 5-6" inboard of the exterior face,
at the concrete core), but there are ways to mitigate all of these
with some good design detailing. <br>
<br>
Best of luck,<br>
Jacob<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/11/14, 11:40 AM, Misha Rauchwerger
wrote:<br>
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<div>I have a client that wants to build a straw bale house at
4000 feet in the Sierra Foothills. They have been getting
conflicting information about the wisdom of building with
straw at that elevation. In particular there is the concern
about the effects of moisture in the wetter months, and
possible condensation inside the walls. They know about the
need for big eaves, and permeable plasters, but have been
swayed against the idea from a local green architect in town.
Please direct me to any research, or anecdotal evidence to
support straw bale construction under these conditions, or
maybe there is valid concern. I have only built in the
lower/dryer elevations on flatter sites.<br>
<br>
</div>
They also share these concerns:<br>
<div>
<div>
<br>
Their lot is sloped, so they would likely have to build a
full walk-out basement on the lower level, and the living
space on the upper level. This means that the full lower
level is built of concrete (probably Faswall or Durisol);
will they would have to build out the lower walls to match
the width of the straw bales? How is this disparity in wall
thicknesses usually resolved with the least cost/impact?<br>
<br>
- With a walk-out basement, is it possible/reasonable to do
a stepped-foundation on the lower level to minimize the
amount of concrete used? Or does the mixed use of concrete
and post/beam and straw bale construction create
unreasonable headaches in the building process?<br>
<br>
</div>
<div>Thanks everyone for your comments,<br>
</div>
<div>Misha Rauchwerger<br>
</div>
<div><a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://builtinbliss.com">builtinbliss.com</a><br>
</div>
<div><br>
<br>
<br>
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<div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
Jacob Deva Racusin <br>
Co-Owner<br>
New Frameworks Natural Design/Build<br>
<br>
Author, The Natural Building Companion<br>
Chelsea Green Press, 2012<br>
<br>
(802) 782-7783<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:jacob@newframeworks.com">jacob@newframeworks.com</a><br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.newframeworks.com">http://www.newframeworks.com</a></div>
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