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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Hey, I've got a <sarcasm>
brilliant idea:<br>
<br>
Put the top in 4-6" to protect the head and jambs, as John Straube
suggests. Then put the bottom of the window flush with the
exterior, so you don't have to deal with sills! <br>
<br>
I'm sure that wouldn't create any other problems...<br>
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</sarcasm><br>
<br>
On 11/20/12 1:42 PM, John Straube wrote:<br>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix"><font face="Helvetica, Arial,
sans-serif">Another John here.<br>
Provided the window frame is within the lines of the exterior
and interior surfaces of the strawbale wall, locating the
window has almost zero impact on thermal performance. Perhaps
3-5% for the extreme positions and less than that when you are
even a few inches in.<br>
I think Bob Theis is correct that it is easier to waterproof
the window on the flat, eg on the exterior face. <br>
However, I know that locating the window on the face exposes
it to MUCH more rain water, and so I NEED to get better water
proofing.<br>
If the window is pulled in somewhat (say 4-6"), the head and
jambs become very protected but the sill becomes very
exposed. <br>
So to get any advantage we need to detail the sill carefully
(pesky corners). But, steeply sloping (say 6:12) sills will
also greatly reduce risk.<br>
The bottom corners at the sill can be easily solved (in my
humble opinion) by using preformed corners, made of rubber,
plastic or galv metal (check out people like Dow and Cosella
Doerken for plastic and rubber cheap corners, get you sheet
metal guy to build metal ones)<br>
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