<div>Archie Logician,</div><div><br></div>You kind of lost me with all that about tilt-up moose furring on onion domes, but I think I get the gist of it and it seems like it would require advance planing, which is not always compatible with curvy buildings, unless they are computer generated modules.<div>
<br></div><div>I've always toyed with the idea of using a flexible drainage mat system, like the scribbled up wires, such at <a href="http://www.stucoflex.com/rainscreen_drainage_mats.htm">these</a>, which would conform easily to curves. How to attach the mat and the lath? Tack them both in place over the scratch coat, then go through and drill holes through the scratch coat (this is really easy when the plaster is green), and poke 14g ceiling hanger wire through the bales, bending over on both sides outside the lath. Voila! the lathing is secured firmly to the contours without the use of trees. </div>
<div><br></div><div>Now, isn't that deep?</div><div><br></div><div>John <i>"Help me, I've got the bends!"</i> Swearingen</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 11:45 AM, RT <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:ArchiLogic@yahoo.ca">ArchiLogic@yahoo.ca</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;">On Fri, 21 Jan 2011 13:00:02 -0500, <<a href="mailto:gsbn-request@greenbuilder.com" target="_blank">gsbn-request@greenbuilder.com</a>> wrote:<br>
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<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 06:51:14 -0800<br>
From: John Swearingen<br>
Subject: Exterior plaster sealer?<br>
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<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
I'm familiar with DdB's house, one of my favorite sights along the coast, and I can tell you that wood will not bend enough to clad this house! I've long been a fan of siloxanes, [snip]<br>
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<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
John "Bend it Like deBoer" Swearingen<br>
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(full text of the Skillful Meany's mind-bending message and originating thread may be found at:<br>
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<a href="http://greenbuilder.com/pipermail/gsbn/2011q1/001222.html" target="_blank">http://greenbuilder.com/pipermail/gsbn/2011q1/001222.html</a> )<br>
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I'm a fan of the building geometry method (ie ventilated rainscreen cladding systems ... enclosed porches,lattice screens, berms with coniferous plantings etc. on windward elevations) vs the painted-on chemical stew method (ie latexes, oils, waxes, silanes/siloxanes etc.) of keeping wind-driven rain off of moisture-susceptible wall materials.<br>
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Especially when trying to keep plaster (and the materials behind the plaster) dry ... simply because plasters can develop cracks (from both structural stresses (ie seismic or wind loading) and those induced by temperature & shrinkage stresses or just plain poor plastering practises) long after the application of the sealer which is typically applied shortly after the building's completion.<br>
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(If you can find the charts that show the volume of rain that can pass through various crack widths for various wind velocities, you'll appreciate the "minimise potential crack exposure" approach which applies to cladding as well as plumbers.)<br>
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As for the "inability-to-bend-to accommodate curved surfaces" issue which the Meany mentions, one notes that when faced with the prospect of cladding difficult compound-curved shapes in difficult climates (ie onion domes in the former USSR or ornate Victorian and Queen Anne style homes on the North American north-east Atlantic coast ) rather than try to steam-bend large pieces of wood, small shingles (either diamond-shaped sheet metal with fold-locked seams on the four edges (best) or multi-layered wood shakes or shingles ("good 'nuff")) were the traditional, time-proven effective methods of choice.<br>
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For a plastered SB wall where there aren't a whole lot of places one can whack in a nail to hold up furring strips and nailers, the rainscreen cladding system is probably best conceived of as a pre-fabricated (or pre-cast or tilt-up) panel system, the individual panels clipped to the building with points of attachment at sill, ribbon joist, door & window jamb/head/sill and top plate locations.<br>
<br>
ie instead of nailing furring strips to the building and then nailing cladding pieces to the furring strips, integrate the furring strips and cladding to create self-stiffenned panels or ribbed/waffle shapes if pre-cast or tilt-up panels).<br>
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This approach affords one the opportunity to make the cladding panels in an easier-to-work on horizontal orientation, protected from the elements if desired, without any exposed mechanical fasteners which can lead to localised deterioration of the cladding at the fastener penetration points, not to mention deterioration/failure of the fasteners themselves ... all of which is amenable to doing a better job.<br>
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-- <br>
=== * ===<br>
Rob Tom<br>
Kanata, Ontario, Canada<br>
< A r c h i L o g i c at Y a h o o dot c a ><br>
manually winnow the chaff from my edress if you hit "reply"<br></font><div class="hm">
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</div></blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><br>-- <br><font face="'trebuchet ms', sans-serif"><span style="font-size:x-small"><font color="#666666">John Swearingen<br>Skillful Means Design & Construction<br>
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