[GSBN] earthen floor sealer in Haiti

[Derek Roff]

Tracy says that a thinned linseed oil first coat penetrates more 
deeply, and Beeel says that an unthinned first coat penetrates 
enough.  Their observations are not necessarily in conflict.

Derelict

Derek Roff
Language Learning Center
Ortega Hall 129, MSC03-2100
University of New Mexico
Albuquerque, NM 87131-0001
505/277-7368, fax 505/277-3885
Internet: derek at unm.edu

--On Friday, March 18, 2011 5:32 PM -0700 John Swearingen 
<jswearingen at skillful-means.com> wrote:

Although I've also asked Beeel this question about thinning, and 
received the thick>>>thin regime,  I would go with Tracy's scientific 
observations, since they also appeal to common sense and/or logic.   
 So I wonder why Beeel's thick coat is frequently recommended, and I 
have a couple of thoughts on that..


If penetration is the goal, then Tracy's thin>>>thick program would 
do the trick better.  I wonder, though, if we are we confusing about 
the proper prophylactics, that is, confusing 'penetration' with 
'protection'.  The appealing quality of linseed (and other oils), is 
that they create a leathery coating at the top of the earthen 
surface, so a technique that forms a coating in successive layers 
would be the most successful.  Warm oil will assure easy and 
sufficient penetration and bonding, then thiner applications build up 
the protective sheath.  


Just my two pesos in a wrapper about covering the earth with shoe 
leather....any more experiences to go by?


John "Oiled" Swearingen





On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 3:17 PM, Tracy Vogel 
<tactileinteriors at hughes.net> wrote:


Hello all,
Great discussion.  Thank you.

I’ve just caught up and read the thread.  A couple of offerings...

First thought:  Since doing core tests of 5 different earthen floors 
sealed with linseed oil I have been a proponent of thinning the first 
layer and decreasing the thinner in successive layers.  I’ve done it 
both ways and do agree that you don’t need a deep penetration into 
the floor to get the benefits of the sealer.  However from the core 
samples, and other tests in my studio the regime with the first layer 
being thinned penetrates deeper.  If the floor is gauged or injured 
the deeper penetrated floor does not abrade or dust as much as the 
thinner penetrated floor.  This is convenient if one can not get to 
the repair quickly.

Second thought:  There was a floor in New Mexico that we tore out to 
replace.  It was over 45 years old and had five layers of floor that 
were laid on top of each other over the years.  The first, bottom, 
layer was a blood floor.  The regime, as I understood it from those 
who laid it, was fresh blood added to the mix with the water.  They 
also rubbed a blood clay aliz to finish it. If they could not get Ox 
blood they would use what was available, cow or elk.  As we chunked 
the layers out it was amazing in that this first layer was still much 
stronger than the ones laid on top of it.  It was easy to remove it 
cleanly from the other layers and came out in much larger plates.

Third thought:  Linseed oil in the mix.  I’m not a big proponent of 
linseed oil at a plaster wall sealer but was faced with a strange mix 
last year that we fortified with linseed oil.  At very small 
quantities in the plaster it did not change color, became amazingly 
water resistant, stronger and yet was still repairable.  Could this 
not apply to a floor mix.  Why not put the sealer (linseed oil) in it?

Tracy




On 3/18/11 8:32 AM, "Bill" <bill at caneloproject.com> wrote:







If you're going to use multiple coats of oil on the floor, don't you 
want the FIRST coat to be thinned, and therefore penetrate better, 
and then progressively thin subsequent coats less and less?


So would a carpenter think so, wood is a lot less porous.  Or so I 
would say.  Therefore, we've always gotten the best results by 
applying full strength oil, letting it penetrate, which it does so 
well and then using the solvents to get a little additional oil 
soaked in.  But hey, as they say down here, every maestro has own 
libro (book of tricks) and whatever you can get to work, then that 
oughta be good.


Also:  am I the only one who is uncomfortable about the idea of using 
edible oils (i.e., food) in construction?  My discomfort is partly 
because that oil is food to all sorts of critters, but also because 
one way or another you are, by using it, sort of removing it from a 
hungry person's mouth.


Well since linseed = flax, flaxseed oil is clearly a food and we've 
never had problems with it especially when one considers that the oil 
is typically laced with solvents.  If you stop and think about it, 
most oils are edible in one form or another.  Haven't consumed any 
used motor oil recently, but I can assure you that the critters won't 
care for it.

At least down here, termites are the big issue and when they have 
options for mud mixes with straw, I don't think the linseed oil would 
be of much interest to them.  At least the Mexican termites don't 
seem to have an interest in flax based products.

Bill



-- 
John Swearingen
Skillful Means Design & Construction
2550 9th Street   Suite 209A
Berkeley, CA   94710
510.849.1800 phone
510.849.1900 fax

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