[GSBN] re tying half bales

Thu Oct 29 21:34:27 UTC 2009

Derek,
I would say that if one uses the method whereby bales are divided by  
using a continuous piece of twine to separate the bale into two  
smaller bales, that way the existing bale strings need not be cut  
until the two new bales are tied off.  That way there is no change in  
compression.
I hope you can get the idea by the description I've given, easier to  
do by diagram.

Bill
Athena & Bill Steen
caneloproject at gmail.com
www.caneloproject.com
www.caneloproject.blogspot.com

On Oct 29, 2009, at 1:39 PM, Derek Roff wrote:

> Thanks for your comments, Bill.  I have no direct experience with  
> the clamping method, and so I don't know to what extent it would/ 
> could/should compress the bales, and how much it just maintains/ 
> regains the starting compression.  Certainly many workshop  
> participants a frustrated that they lose bale density when they  
> divide and re-tie bales.
>
> I think I've figured out how you are using the awl and the dowel,  
> although it took some metaphoric head scratching.  Thanks for the  
> tips.
>
> Derek
>
> --On Thursday, October 29, 2009 12:21 PM -0700 Athena & Bill Steen <absteen at dakotacom.net 
> > wrote:
>
>> Derek,
>> I don't know what kind of bales were there on site that required such
>> a large amount of compression, but it sounds like they were lacking
>> the kind of density one wants in building quality bales.  If I think
>> back over the years I can't remember using bales that required any
>> additional compression.  As for dividing and retying we seem to do
>> quite nicely using two very simple methods.  The first is to use an
>> awl in loop to separate the twine so that it doesn't fray.  That way
>> it is easy to exert a great deal of pressure on the twine with no
>> negative side effects.  The second involves using something like a
>> short section of a wood dowel or bamboo and wrapping it around the
>> twine as one would do with one's trusty old Sears lawn mower or some
>> other outboard engine.  With those two methods there is no damaged
>> twine or fingers.
>> If the bales being used are so bad that they require additional
>> compression, then I would initially look for different bales.
>>
>> Bill
>> Athena & Bill Steen
>> caneloproject at gmail.com
>> www.caneloproject.com
>> www.caneloproject.blogspot.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Oct 29, 2009, at 11:08 AM, Derek Roff wrote:
>>
>>> As others have mentioned, I haven't experienced this specific
>>> problem with arm pain.  However, it might be more common than we
>>> imagine, since workshop participants are likely to be unsurprised by
>>> being sore after a bale raising, and unlikely to call us, even if
>>> the pain persists.
>>>
>>> On the other hand (the right hand, usually), I have seen many
>>> workshop participants with blisters or lacerated fingers due to the
>>> repeated abrasion by the bale twine.  Usually right at the upper
>>> joint of the little finger, where the twine feeds through the hand,
>>> as they are pulling it tight.
>>>
>>> I consider this to be a more serious thing than the injured people
>>> do. It is a surface wound, and if properly cleaned, it will heal
>>> quickly. But with all the micro-organisms around bales, if it isn't
>>> cleaned, it has a good chance of getting infected.  Bale frenzy
>>> tends to lead to people not taking care of themselves.
>>>
>>> At the recent colloquium in Oregon, someone (Chris Magwood?)
>>> referred to an approach that was new to me.  They suggested using
>>> four bar clamps to divide and compress the bale, before retying.
>>> The head of a bar clamp is pushed into the bale at the length of the
>>> future partial bale.  Then the screw part of the clamp is brought
>>> up   to the end of the bale, and tightened.  Use two clamps per
>>> side, so   four clamps are needed to divide a bale this way.  Next,
>>> the strings   are cut, and the bale divided.  Finally, the partial
>>> bale is retied,   without the need to provide much compression via
>>> the new strings,   since the clamps are providing pressure.  If the
>>> remaining portion   of the bale needs to be retied, the clamps can
>>> then be moved to that   piece.
>>>
>>> This approach is supposed to be faster and easier, eliminating all
>>> the work with the bale needles.  I'm planning to try it.  Has anyone
>>> else seen this approach?
>>>
>>> Derek
>>>
>>>
>>> --On Thursday, October 29, 2009 6:32 AM -0400 Carolatkn at aol.com
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi
>>>> I'd really appreciate your thoughts on re tying bales. I did a  
>>>> straw
>>>> bale workshop 3 weeks ago and my left arm is still throbbing from
>>>> making half bales. It is very painful. I've noticed this for a few
>>>> days before, but it is definatley much worse this time. It could
>>>> have been exacerbated by the fact that they only had the really
>>>> thick baler twine which is very difficult to pull through.
>>>> We call our knot the "truckers hitch" although I don't think that  
>>>> is
>>>> strictly correct - a loop on the end, a loop a hand width away,
>>>> threaded through and pulled in as tightly as possible and tied off.
>>>> So my questions are
>>>>
>>>> Is this just me or has anyone else experienced something similar? I
>>>> don't want to be demonstrating this technique if I could be  
>>>> injuring
>>>> some one.
>>>> Is there a better way to do it or a tool perhaps that could take  
>>>> the
>>>> strain? I've seen someone use a pallet strapper but the best  
>>>> tension
>>>> is achieved with a metal buckle - could those buckles be a
>>>> condensation point in the wall? I've also heard of farmers making
>>>> half size bales but inevitably some adjustment will be needed so
>>>> customising will always be needed.
>>>>
>>>> best wishes
>>>> Carol Atkinson
>>>> www.strawcottage.co.uk
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Derek Roff
>>> Language Learning Center
>>> Ortega Hall 129, MSC03-2100
>>> University of New Mexico
>>> Albuquerque, NM 87131-0001
>>> 505/277-7368, fax 505/277-3885
>>> Internet: derek at unm.edu
>>>
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>>
>>
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>
>
> Derek Roff
> Language Learning Center
> Ortega Hall 129, MSC03-2100
> University of New Mexico
> Albuquerque, NM 87131-0001
> 505/277-7368, fax 505/277-3885
> Internet: derek at unm.edu
>
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